self lie

I just watched Point Break. I think I already saw it five times. I always have tears in my eyes at the end. Why? Love. It is love. A love affair between me and the sea. My oldest and number one quintessential love affair. I keep talking about being interested in something, something concrete, but is that true? I am interested in Ocean Science, but what is the CAUSE for that? It is like being in love with a person. You are interested in what he or she says, but that is not the main issue. So my interest in the science of the Ocean probably comes from my love for it. The rational is caused by the irrational. Interesting. Now there is a show about Surfing on TeeVee. Extreme surfing. I really can become a couch potatoe when such Documentaries are aired. Especially things that remind me of my Hawaii time. I see the waves. And I have three marine science related applications running right now. That is still what I want. Getting back to where I lost track years ago. Doesn't mean I leave my writing or whatever, but I need the concrete, the field component, the hard work at sea. That made me happy. Surfing. The perfect metaphor for life. And the surfer Philosophy is one of the few positive American contributions to world culture. It is about being in tune. It is about adjusting to your surroundings and beating yourself, instead of destroying others.